The Powder Room Journal
Ingredients explained, routines analysed, and the questions our community are asking
The Powder Room Journal
Are alcohols in skincare ‘bad’?
The short answer is… not necessarily. Alcohols have developed a bad reputation when it comes to skincare, and that’s only partially due to fact. The truth is, different types of alcohols are commonly used in all types of skincare products for different purposes. Whether these alcohols are ‘bad’ really depends: on the type of alcohols, on your skin type and on the concentration of those alcohols in the product. The role of alcohols in skincare So why are alcohols used in skincare at all? For a number of reasons, depending on the particular types of alcohols included in each product. Simple alcohols, which you can identify on product labels as ‘SD alcohol’, ‘denatured alcohol’ or ‘isopropyl alcohol’ are usually added to improve the performance and texture of skincare, as either solvents or emulsifiers – to help other ingredients either dissolve or blend thoroughly. They also help products dry quickly and feel matte and weightless on the skin. Some alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol, act as preservatives and work to keep natural and organic products free from bacteria. Alcohols can also promote the effective penetration of active ingredients (such as Vitamin C or retinol) into the skin. However, in the same manner, they also facilitate the penetration of potential irritants such as essential oils or fragrance. The dark side of simple alcohols Quite often, the ‘bad’ characteristics we associate with alcohols in skincare relate to these simple alcohols. Unfortunately, while they do speed up product drying time, they also tend to take some of the water out from your skin at the same time. They can be irritating and can compromise the skin’s natural moisture barrier over time. This barrier is necessary for keeping your skin balanced, protected and healthy, and its breakdown leaves your skin vulnerable to UV damage and breakouts. Their mattifying effect might feel immediately satisfying for oily skin but the dehydration encourages the skin to produce more oil to compensate in the long term, exacerbating the condition. These simple alcohols might sound off-putting, however they are common in all kinds of products, from budget to luxury, so harmful can they really be? The extent to which these alcohols will impact your skin really depends on how much of them is in the product. If these simple alcohols appear as one of the first few ingredients in more than one product you frequently use, it’s means you’re likely applying a high concentration which may be harmful for your skin. On the other hand, if you spot one of these alcohols lower down in the product’s ingredient list, it’s likely to be less damaging. The benefits of fatty alcohols Not all alcohols you’ll in skincare are simple alcohols. There are alcohols which can be really beneficial! They’re referred to as fatty alcohols and they can be identified on a product label as ‘cetyl’, ‘stearyl’, ‘behenyl’ or ‘cetearyl’ alcohol. These alcohols have the opposite effect to their simple relatives, acting as emollients which lock in moisture in addition to keeping products from separating. These alcohols are unlikely to have a dehydrating or irritating effect, however if you have rosacea, eczema or particularly sensitive skin, you should still proceed with caution and monitor how your skin reacts.
The truth about silicones
Silicones are a tricky topic. They are widely used in cosmetics, and you will find ‘cones on many a cosmetic label, both in high-end and drugstore products. However, you will also have likely seen an increasing number of products advertised as ‘free of silicones’. Does that mean that silicones are harmful and should be avoided? If you have already done your research, you will know that the truth is somewhat complicated and confusing. Regardless, we are here to separate some facts from fiction in order to help us make better choices for ourselves. What are silicones in beauty products? To begin with, what are silicones? Silicones are synthetic polymers made up of silicon, oxygen, and combinations of other elements. They’re easy to spot on a product label because their names end in in -cone or -siloxane; such as Amodimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane and Dimethicone (the most common beauty ‘cones). They are often included in cosmetic formulations to make our products feel good: smooth, fluid and spreadable. They add softness and a velvety yet matt texture to serums and moisturizers, and act as an occlusive to keep moisture locked into our skin. They fill in pores and fine lines and have a reflective quality which adds a glow. They add shine and luminosity to our hair, and help to detangle and reduce breakage. All wonderful things. This all sounds great so far. So, are silicones actually bad? There is some misunderstanding here, and it depends on what your expectations are. In skincare products, silicones form a firm yet breathable barrier over the skin. Their molecular structure is large with wide spaces in between, allowing them to form a long-wearing, waterproof film that protects against moisture loss yet doesn’t feel heavy or greasy. It is this same property that gives them that velvety smooth feel and makes them great primer ingredients. This molecular structure is also what makes them non-comedogenic – they are unable to penetrate the skin, sitting on top of it instead. However, these properties are also why they fall under criticism. Silicones add a silky texture to skincare products which make them feel as if they’re working and making improvements to the skin, however it is a temporary and superficial effect. In reality, silicones add no benefits to the skin’s general texture or condition. While this doesn’t cause any harm, it could be misleading to a consumer who isn’t necessarily aware of the effects that silicones have in their products. Another reason why this property has given silicones a bad name is because this barrier not only locks in moisture, it can also lock in excess oils, dead skin cells and bacteria onto the skin’s surface. This can lead to a dull appearance, congestion and breakouts. So, unless you are diligently double-cleansing you may start to experience these side-effects with regular use of silicone-heavy products. However, everyone’s skin has a different level of tolerance so there is no clear-cut limit, and again, not all silicones are made equal. Silicones in haircare products When it comes to hair products, silicones coat the hair strands and create a wonderful slip which detangles and reduces frizz. The downside of this is that product build-up can accumulate if they are used frequently, which over time can weigh the hair down and give it a dull appearance. This can also mean that the sealed strands are prevented from absorbing oxygen and other nutrients, weakening it and leading to breakage. On the other hand, silicones are often what create a smooth and manageable finish, reducing the likelihood of breakage. Additionally, lightweight silicones (such as PEG-7 dimethicone, dimethicone copolyol, cyclomethicone, or cyclopentasiloxane) are less likely to lead to build-up in the hair and on the scalp, and with the occasional use of clarifying shampoo, moderate use of hair products formulated with silicones is unlikely to do any damage. Are silicones bad for your health or the environment? For the most part, silicones are widely used in medicine due to their stable, non-reactive and non-irritating properties which overall make them very safe for use in cosmetics. There are concerns that some types of cyclic silicones, including cyclotetrasiloxane (D4), cyclopentasiloxane (D5), cyclohexasiloxane (D6), and cyclomethicone, may act as endocrine-disruptors, essentially interfering with hormonal and reproductive systems in certain doses, although its not clear exactly what those are. Additionally, in order to be harmful, these compounds would have to be absorbed into the body, which they typically aren’t as they are included in formulations to promote fast evaporation. Overall, it has been determined that formulations with low concentrations of these silicones are likely to be harmless. Linear silicones, such as dimethicone, have a larger, more stable molecular structure and are also known to be harmless. When it comes to environmental concerns, there is an equal amount of misunderstanding. Silicones are derived from the naturally-occurring substance silica (sand), which is abundant and sustainable. They are also vegan and cruelty-free, as they are not derived from animal sources.However, once the silicones typically used in cosmetics are formed, many are not biodegradable. There are concerns that over time, some silicones used in rinse-off products may be bio-accumulative (i.e. build up) and be potentially toxic in aquatic environments, although there is no clear evidence to substantiate this. Furthermore, these particular silicones (D4, D5, and D6 as above), are not usually used in rinse-off formulations so the overall risk is low. Conclusion What the use of silicones really comes down to is preference. There is no evidence that silicones are actually harmful to personal health and as long as you are cleansing – both your hair and skin – properly, you are unlikely to be at any risk. What silicones don’t do is add any actual benefits and this can sometimes disguise poor performance, so just be sure to read the label and understand what is in your beauty products. [products skus="ND04, HX03, OR05, IL14"]
All About Acids
You may have heard about acids in skincare… Salicylic acid, Glycolic acid and Hyaluronic acid among others. If these names take you back to high school chemistry class (or to a general state of confusion) – you are not alone. They may not sound like ingredients you want on your skin, but they can be very beneficial when used correctly. Fear not, we are here to demystify acids in skincare for you! All acids used in skincare offer individual advantages, however to really benefit you have to carefully choose one that is suited to your skin type and concerns. Some acids which are exfoliating are particularly useful for helping your skin look fresh and radiant, and can treat and even prevent acne, wrinkles, and blemishes. Fine lines If you are worried about fine lines and wrinkles, then Alpha Hydroxy Acids or AHAs are a good choice. In fact, many of the most popular skincare acids fall into the category of AHAs including lactic acid, glycolic acid, mandelic acid and more. AHAs are derived from various plants and work by gently removing dead skin cells by breaking down the bonds between them to reveal the fresh new skin underneath. AHAs are humectant which means that they attract moisture to the skin and will exfoliate without drying, and can even improve how well the skin holds onto moisture. Because AHAs reveal the delicate new skin to the surface, sensitivity to sun exposure is substantially increased so sun protection should always be applied when using any product with AHAs and for at least a week after the last application. Breakout prone skin If you have oily or blemish-prone skin, Salicylic acid, also known as Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA), has wonderful oil-attracting properties which make it very effective when it comes to clearing blocked pores. Salicylic acid cuts through and effectively clears out oils and excess sebum. It is perfect for breakout-prone skin as it also has anti-inflammatory properties which help calm the skin. Similar to AHAs, Salicylic acid does help to minimize wrinkles and also to brighten the skin. Another reason it is also recommended for those who have breakout-prone and sensitive skin is that it works more gently than physical scrubs which may create small, invisible cuts to the skin’s surface and increase irritation and the potential for infection. Dry skin When you hear "acid" you most likely imagine something that peels or exfoliates, however hyaluronic is in the hydration game. Hyaluronic acid is a naturally-occurring hydrating agent and humectant (meaning it helps skin attract and retain moisture in the skin). The application of hyaluronic acid has a plumping effect on the skin. As a loss of moisture leads to early signs of aging and loss of elasticity, hyaluronic acid helps to replenish the skin and protect it against ageing. AHAs can also be used to improve the condition of dry skin. Not only does frequent exfoliation with a gentle AHA reveal softer, smoother skin, their humectant properties help the skin attract and retain moisture. Elasticity, pigmentation and age spots Vitamin C, or L-ascorbic acid which is a form of vitamin C, is one of the most powerful antioxidants in skincare. Vitamin C is known for its firming and brightening benefits and its ability to reduce the appearance of age spots and sun-damage related hyperpigmentation. This incredible vitamin also helps to protect the skin from environmental stressors and sun damage. Start with a patch test and identify purging Better safe than sorry! Whenever you introduce a new ingredient or product to your skincare regimen, we highly recommend that you do a patch test first to ensure your skin doesn’t have a reaction. Apply a small amount on your wrist or behind your ear to see how your skin reacts – if you experience anything more serious than very mild and passing redness or irritation, this is not the right product for you. It is also a good idea to bear in mind that your skin may experience mild ‘purging’ when you begin using a new chemical exfoliator such as an AHA. This involves mild, non-cystic breakouts which emerge as clogs are brought to the surface, and pass relatively quickly. If you experience persistent, cystic breakouts for an extended period of time, unfortunately this product is likely to be unsuitable for your skin type.
What should you look for in a cleanser?
Cleansing is the first and possibly the most important step of your skincare routine. It sets the tone for everything else that follows. Unfortunately, it is also the step that often gets paid the least attention! Sure, it only stays on your face for a couple of minutes before washing off. However, we also know that cleansers are essential for us to rid our skin of makeup, oils, SPF, and unwanted dirt and bacteria. It is the foundation for the skincare that follows. So, we have decided to give cleansing a leg up in the skincare chain and help you determine what to look for when it comes to choosing the right cleanser for you. pH is king Healthy skin normally has a pH of around 5.5, which means it is slightly on the acidic side. This acidity is known as the skin’s ‘acid mantle’ and it is what protects your skin from pollutants and keeps bacteria from flourishing on the surface. For this reason, you should protect your skin’s acid mantle at all costs! Stick to a cleanser with a pH of between 4.5 and 6 to avoid stripping your skin of goodness. Avoid sulfates Cleansers should never make your skin feel squeaky clean – your face is not a pot! It should feel fresh, clean but not stripped or dehydrated. If you get that dry and tight feeling, consider this a warning because it is a sign that your cleanser is throwing your skin off balance. To avoid encountering this problem, we recommend that you stay away from cleansers that contain sulfates, which are often added to cleansing products to encourage foaming. We recommend avoiding products which include the following in their ingredients list: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, or Ammonium Laureth Sulfate. Your face will thank you for it! Avoid granular exfoliants Regular exfoliation is necessary to keep your skin clear of dead skin cells and to prepare your skin for active ingredients and hydration, however we recommend chemical exfoliants containing AHA and BHA acids (such as salicylic, lactic, and glycolic) instead of abrasive granular scrubs. They help to gently remove pore-clogging dead skin cells but also improve the texture of the skin and work to repair acne scars. If you have acne-prone skin, it is best to avoid abrasive physical exfoliators with harsh grains, sugar, or salt, or facial brushes as much as possible. If you have dry skin, you can use a gentle exfoliator with either very fine grains in a creamy, lotion texture or one that’s honey-based or which contains moisturizing oils. Double cleanse! Cleansing done twice! We can’t stress this one enough – brought to you by Korean women and their gorgeous skin, and now loved all over the world. You begin with an oil-based cleanser or balm to remove make-up, SPF and oils, and follow it up with a water-based traditional cleanser, such as a cleansing gel or foam, to remove dirt and bacteria. If you are longing for clear, radiant skin, this is the way to go! Bonus: Avoid face wipes We know this is the easy option but resist at all cost! Cleansing wipes are loaded with chemicals which, sure, will dissolve your makeup, but surfactants and emulsifiers also aggravate your skin. Not to mention the scrubbing involved on a stubborn scrap of mascara, all that pulling is a massive no-no around your delicate eyes. Be kind to your skin!