The Powder Room Journal
Ingredients explained, routines analysed, and the questions our community are asking
The Powder Room Journal
What are ‘active’ ingredients in your skincare?
When you hear about ‘actives’ in skincare it is usually a reference to products which include a key ingredient that is scientifically is proven to ensure visible improvement in skin’s texture, clarity, and brightness. Whilst all the ingredients in a skincare formulation (should) have a purpose in one way or another, the ‘active’ ingredient is the one that achieves the desired results targeting a specific skincare issue. Here we break down the most common actives found in non-prescription skincare, and what they do: Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) Alpha Hydroxy Acid’s (AHA’s) are derived from various plants that gently removes dead skin cells by breaking down the bonds between the cells and the fresh new skin underneath. AHA’s are humectant which means that they attract moisture to the skin and will exfoliate without drying. AHAs are primarily used for improving signs of fine lines, dry skin and an uneven skin tones. AHAs commonly used in skincare formulations include glycolic, lactic and mandelic acids which are suitable for use on sensitive skin. Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) Beta Hydroxy Acid’s (BHAs) are a group of chemical exfoliants that are anti-inflammatory and oil-attracting. They cut through pore-clogging oils and clear blackheads, minimise large pores, and calm the skin. Salicylic acid and betaine salicylate are popular BHAs used to treat acne because they are anti-inflammatory and help minimise wrinkles and brighten the skin. BHAs are recommended for those who have acne-prone sensitive skin. Vitamin C Vitamin C is powerful antioxidant which helps protect against harmful free radicals by neutralising them. Vitamin C is known for its firming and brightening benefits and its ability to reduce the appearance of age spots and sun-damage related hyperpigmentation. This incredible vitamin also helps to protect the skin from environmental stressors and sun damage. Hyaluronic Acid Hyaluronic Acid has the capacity to retain water and help regulate your skin’s moisture levels. It keeps your skin balanced and hydrated while strengthening the skins resilience to restore volume and fullness. Suitable for all skin types. Retinols Retinols work to rejuvenate the skin, speeding up the natural exfoliation cycle and signalling new cells to the skin’s surface. Retinol also promotes collagen production and has the ability to improve the overall quality and appearance of the skin including evening skin tone, smoothing wrinkles and refining the appearance of pores. Ceramides Ceramides are lipids naturally found in your skin. They form part of the skin’s natural barrier which helps protect against environmental stressors. Ceramides support moisture retention and repair to boost your skin’s suppleness as well as reducing fine lines ad wrinkles. Niacinamide Niacinamide, a form of niacin also known as Vitamin B3, is an essential nutrient which works to visibly reduce the appearance of large pores, regulate oil production, resurface and brighten the skin’s surface. It also boosts your skin’s ability to retain moisture while increasing the effectiveness of ceramides. Shop our edit of products with Active Ingredients here.
Vegan and Cruelty-Free: What do the labels mean?
New Year’s symbolises new beginnings, whether they be taking up a new hobby, working on self development or committing to changing up your health routine – it's the start of something new. One of the ways we can begin to make a change is by creating a more conscious thought process when purchasing items and here we are going to talk about how we, as a community, can choose better. One thing to consider is you don’t have to be a Vegan, or adopt a totally Vegan lifestyle, in order to buy vegan beauty and skincare products. Your choice to purchase vegan products falls in line with the same principles as buying Cruelty Free, you don’t need to have a pet dog or rabbit to care about animal welfare. Looking at labels, certified and non-certified, and ingredients means that your choice of purchase can be traced back to the origin ensuring the product is free from animal harm, such as testing and animal derivatives, and/or vegan! With so many labels on the market, it can be confusing and complicated to decipher what they mean, are they genuine and how to choose with clarity. Well, we’ve got you covered! What do Vegan and Cruelty-Free mean? Let’s start with the definitions, which often get mixed-up. Products which are advertised as ‘Vegan’ are formulated entirely without any animal-derived ingredients such as collagen, albumen, gelatin, shellac or carmine. They even go as far as to omit more ‘natural’ animal by-products such as honey, beeswax, or lanolin. Cruelty-Free, on the other hand, simply refers to products that not have not been tested on animals. However, this claim often only refers to the production process rather than the raw ingredients. This means that it is possible for a cruelty-free product to be formulated with animal-derived ingredients such as beeswax, carmine, lanolin, shellac, or goat's milk, for example. Can a product be Vegan but not cruelty-free (or vice versa)? Yes, because their definitions are separate. A product can either be both Vegan and Cruelty-Free, or it can be one but not the other. While a Vegan product is made without animal-derived ingredients, this does not necessarily mean that the final product wasn’t tested on animals, and vice versa. Animal by-products can also be ethically-sourced so some products are cruelty-free but not Vegan. While these definitions are clear, many brands still often allow the lines between the two to blur, so where does that leave us? Check the claims To determine if your product is either Vegan or cruelty-free, start by checking the box for claims. Look out for logos of certifying bodies, such as the Leaping Bunny approval from Cruelty-Free International, or for a clear statement that the product has not been tested on animals. If animal welfare is a cause that’s close to your heart, check if the brand is sold in Mainland China, where regulation currently requires animal testing. Most brands detail these claims on their websites so do your research. If you prefer to use Vegan products, look for out for a statement which claims that the product is ‘suitable for Vegans’ or for the Vegan symbol, often indicated with a ‘V’. If this is not on the product, start by scanning the ingredients list and look out for items like gelatine, beeswax, honey, carmine, snail mucin, cera alba, pearl or silk extract, milk derivatives, casein, or lanolin (grease from sheep’s wool). For help deciphering more complex labels, look the product up on the EWG database which provides helpful explanations in terms we can understand or visit Cruelty Free Kitty for globally vetted brands.
Hydration - How Skin Deep Does It Go?
We’ve all heard the saying that a human being can go 3 days without water. What you probably haven't heard is that 60% of our bodies are water. Putting that in context it would seem vital for bodily function to keep drinking that H2O. Water is the single most important chemical in all living things and it abundantly contributes to the life of a cell through hydration. This is where we start to understand the importance of cellular hydration for our overall health, but also for the largest organ of our body, our skin. What is cellular hydration, you ask? We can look at our cells as cute little munchkins that contain the essence of life with its many functions. They essentially need to be watered, fed and rested to operate efficiently to protect from cellular damage and degeneration. Well how does this play a part in our skin health? Cellular dehydration is a chronic process that hugely impacts your skin cells ability to operate imperative functions, mainly cellular turnover. This means your skin can’t shed its outer layer often enough to stay healthy and leads to skin ageing, dullness, congestion and vulnerability to environmental stressors. What causes dehydrated skin? Different factors can affect the hydration levels of your skin such as Bodily dehydration Aging Dry or cold weather Artificial changes in temperature (think A/C and radiators/fans) Too hot or cold water Stress Illness Incorrect skincare Wait, wait, is dehydrated skin the same as dry skin? Actually there is a big difference between the two. Dry skin is a skin type which can be transitional or genetic, generally lacking or having a weak layer of lipids (natural oils like sebum) that protect and maintain the skin barrier function. Think flaky and/or tight skin. Dehydrated skin is more a result of internal/external factors and is existent in all skin types. Dehydration causes the skin's moisture barrier to malfunction as a result of poor cellular function. To put it simply, the cells are thirsty. Dehydrated skin can look like dry skin, it will also present with dullness, lacklustre tone and increased lines. Oily skin can present dehydration through breakouts as the cellular activity is imbalanced. Ok now how do I know the difference? There are a couple of hacks to determine dehydrated skin. You can take a portion of your facial skin in between your fingers for a light pinch and see how fast it bounces back. The slower the process is a good indicator of how well you're hydrated. Another tool is looking at the absorption of our skincare products. How fast they absorb and whether you still feel you need more to quench your skin. Noticing a change in appearance such as increase in lines, sunken look, dullness and even increase in dark under eye circles. Ok great now what do I do, drink more water? Well, yes and no. While drinking good quality water and hydrating drinks is extremely essential and beneficial for everyday life, a little extra tender love is needed for our skin externally. This is where the role of high-quality, expertly sourced cellular skin hydrating products come in. There is no way around it because we all need some form of skincare and it's beneficial to make the right choices by understanding what our skin needs. It’s important to remember that skin changes regularly but it’s essential to keep up with the hydration requirements on a cellular level for optimum skin function. We've got you covered. Shop Powder Beauty Hydration Heroes Edit Here.
Antioxidant Skincare + Five Tips for Your Best Summer Skin
What’s the big deal about free radicals? If you’ve ever bought a product that boasted free radical fighting properties, you may already have some inkling that they can be an enemy to happy, healthy skin. What you may not know is why it’s important, and what to do about free radical damage. If you’ve got questions, we have answers. Here’s what you need to know: So, what are free radicals anyway? Basically, a free radical is a molecule that is missing an electron and, as a result, will aggressively steal electrons from other molecules. When this happens in the skin it creates damage to the cell membranes, disrupting healthy skin function and cellular turnover. Why does this matter? Well, because over time, this can lead to all kinds of unwanted skin issues, including premature aging, increased sensitivity, irritation, age spots, dullness, and dryness. Yikes! So, what can you do to protect your skin from free radical damage and promote a glowing complexion this summer? Here are our top tips: Up your antioxidant factor Generally speaking, antioxidants are the superhero ingredients that take on free radicals; repairing existing free radical damage as well as preventing future damage to the skin. We’ll talk more in depth about a few of our favorites but when shopping for antioxidant skincare, experts cite Vitamins A, B, C and E as being key ingredients to look for, as well as resveratrol, coenzyme q-10, and polyphenols, like green tea extract. Stay on top of SPF UV exposure is top contributor to free radical damage, so sun protection is crucial. By applying an SPF of 30 or more daily and re-applying every two hours, you will help prevent not only free radical damage but discoloration, inflammation, sun damage and skin cancer. Swap heavy creams for lighter weight hydrators Hotter temperatures may make it tempting to skip your moisturizer, but bear in mind that the skin needs hydration just as much in the summer. Rather than forego this step in your routine, try opting for a lighter weight cream or even gel hydrator. Many brands offer multiple moisturizer options, making it easy to adjust according to your skin’s seasonal needs. Boost daily with Vitamin C If we could choose just one antioxidant for glowing, summer skin, it would be Vitamin C. The benefits of C are numerous, but when it comes to fighting free radicals, Vitamin C helps to not only repair existing damage but also boost the skin’s immunity against future exposure. Bonus: Vitamin C is naturally brightening and promotes collagen synthesis for an overall more youthful complexion. Brighten and repair with Vitamin A Another favorite free radical fighting antioxidant we love is Vitamin A. This super ingredient often appears in skincare as retinol, which comes in a variety of potencies, depending on the product. Retinols work well to repair damaged skin and promote cellular regeneration while you sleep. Vitamin A and its derivatives help with healing free radical damage by keeping the skin functioning at a youthful rate, and encouraging the growth of new, healthy cells. Other things to know As with all skincare, antioxidant products work best when used consistently. Think of them as nutrition for your skin, and try to apply ingredients like Vitamin C daily, for best results. Although free radicals are unavoidable in our environment, you can do a lot to prevent their damaging effects with just a few good products.
Is your skincare vitamin deficient? What to know about supplementing your skin
Did you know that there is a whole other aspect to skin nutrition that goes beyond the surface level? As it happens, some of the latest and greatest skincare technology these days isn’t topical products but vitamins and other nutritional supplements that work to address the skin on a cellular level - essentially transforming it from the inside out. But can these new innovations replace your favorite vitamin C serum? Not exactly. Here’s what you need to know: The benefits of supplementing for your skin The theory behind ingesting vitamins for your skin health is that supplementation can help make up for nutritional deficiencies and other imbalances in the body that affect the skin. Experts say when your diet is lacking certain nutrients, it can manifest a number of ways including acne, dull skin, dry skin, or increased sensitivity to sun exposure. While you should always first consult with your health care professional about your specific dietary needs, studies have shown that vitamins and other supplements designed to support the skin can be very effective. The trick is knowing which components are truly beneficial and which to skip. Worth the Splurge: Supplements we love for skin support ● Collagen - Collagen production is a vital skin function that slows as we age. However, studies show that consuming collagen supplements can help boost hydration levels, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and even promote the production of important proteins that support collagen synthesis. ● Vitamin A - Vitamin A is amazing for skin protection and overall skin health. Experts believe that taking a vitamin A supplement has the potential to fight acne, and can even lower your risk of sun damage and certain skin cancers. ● Vitamin D - Vitamin D is known to boost the skin’s metabolism, aiding in cellular repair and better skin immunity. It can also help in the fight against free radical damage, which can cause the skin to age prematurely. ● Probiotics & Gut Health Support - Because so much of skin health is tied to gut health, a good probiotic or other gut health-promoting supplement is key. By balancing gut flora and restoring internal wellness, science has found that you can reduce acne outbreaks and slow aging in the skin. What about vitamins in your products? With all the buzz around vitamin supplements you may be wondering if you still need to apply vitamin-rich skincare products topically. The answer is yes. According to dermatologists, while taking a vitamin supplement has benefits for the whole body, they lack the ability to directly target the skin. Therefore, applying products directly to the skin is still one of the most effective ways to specifically address most skin conditions. Topical application of ingredients allows for a more potent concentration of antioxidants and other active components that can affect change in the skin. Cosmetic formulations ensure that these ingredients are delivered directly to the area in question and work deep within the skin tissue to heal and repair. Topicals to know and love ● Vitamin A - Retinols and other retinoid ingredients are derived from Vitamin A which is naturally rejuvenating and promotes more youthful turnover in the skin. We love Vitamin A for improving acneic, aging or dull skin. ● Vitamin B - Often spotted in your skincare under the name Vitamin B-5 or Niacinamide, Vitamin B is anti-inflammatory and aids in skin healing. It makes a great choice for improving discoloration and overall skin health. ● Vitamin C - Perhaps one of the most important ingredients in topical skincare, Vitamin C is brightening, immune-boosting and helps fight free radical damage. It is also known to boost collagen synthesis for plumper, more glowing skin. Other important things to know When choosing a skin supplement or topical product, ingredients matter. We recommend looking for high-quality formulas from brands you trust. For the best of skin health support and clean, effective supplements that get results, we love brands like OSKIA, Moon Juice and The Nue Co. which use only the best natural, functional ingredients and are designed to take your skin to the next level.
The Perks of Purslane: Is it the latest and greatest skincare super ingredient?
Have you heard about purslane? If not, you aren’t alone. Purslane is a little-known skincare super ingredient, but one that’s beginning to generate a big buzz. Purslane, also known as portulaca oleracea, is a medicinal herb used for centuries in Traditional Chinese Medicine. More recently, superstar dermatologist and skincare expert, Dr. Barbara Sturm has put purslane on the map after discovering its many magical properties for the skin. Sturm formulates most of the products in her Dr. Barbara Sturm Molecular Cosmetics line including skin food supplements - with purslane as a main ingredient. So what exactly does purslane do for your skin? And why do you need this unsung superhero ingredient in your routine? Read on for a breakdown of our favorite benefits. It’s youth boosting Purslane has been proven to transform the skin on a cellular level, making it an ideal choice for beauty lovers who want to age gracefully. It can help stimulate collagen synthesis and create more skin-plumping hyaluronic acid - fighting fine lines and wrinkles from the inside out. In a recent article, Dr. Sturm said that purslane even helps activate the creation of telomerase enzymes, which she calls the “fountain of youth enzyme.” Sturm noted that stimulation of telomerase production was shown in a Harvard study to not only stop the aging process, but to reverse it. It provides super skin nutrition According to Dr. Sturm, purslane is one of the richest plant-based sources of dietary fiber, vitamins, minerals and Omega-3 fatty acids - all glowing skin essentials. Research shows that purslane is incredibly nutrient-dense. It’s high in minerals and vitamins that the skin loves. Purslane contains Vitamin C, which boosts skin immunity. It has six times more Vitamin E than spinach - helping the body fight free radical damage - and more beta carotene than carrots. Purslane is also rich in Vitamin A, a natural alternative to retinol, which aids in cellular turnover and prevents bacteria buildup. It’s sensitive skin friendly For skin that is sensitive, reactive or even damaged from everyday environmental stress, purslane is an ideal ingredient. It has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, making it an amazing ingredient for skin soothing, healing and repair. What’s more, purslane is rich in Omega-3s, containing more nourishing fatty acids than fish oil. Omegas are an essential component of skin health, helping to strengthen the skin’s natural barrier, prevent water loss and support the skin’s natural radiance. It’s an excellent multi-tasker With so many holistic benefits for addressing the skin, purslane has great potential to treat a plethora of common skin conditions and concerns. Acne sufferers can benefit from purslane’s healing and reparative properties, while mature skin types will love its rejuvenating results. Conclusion? Regardless of where you are at in your skin care journey, purslane is one trending ingredient you’re going to want to get in on.
The best skincare ingredients for acne-prone skin
Wouldn’t it be great if we could rid the world of all pimples? What if we could just push a button and make all of them disappear? Who wouldn't hit that button? Here’s some tough news… there isn’t some magical button that we can push in order to make acne go away. But guess what? There are definitely some ingredients out there that work wonders for acne treatment. If you have acne-prone skin, you’ll want to stick around! Dermatologists agree that there are four ingredients that work best for acne treatment. The claims are backed-up by cold-hard evidence. Testimonies can be found from real users too. If you have a pimple-problem, then you’ll want to invest your efforts into the items below! Benzoyl Peroxide This is one of the main active ingredients in many of those over-the-counter acne treatments that you see in stores. If you’ve read the label of a popular acne treatment, then the odds are that you’ve stumbled across benzoyl peroxide. And it’s there for a good reason. Here’s the thing about benzoyl peroxide: it eliminates much of the bacteria that is known for causing pimples. Acne-prone skin can be carefully treated with benzoyl peroxide. It’s important to use benzoyl peroxide in moderation, otherwise you will dehydrate your skin. Salicylic Acid Many dermatologists have given testament to the effectiveness of salicylic acid. If you’re looking for a proper acne treatment, then you’ll want to make sure that this ingredient is in your arsenal. Pimples will have to take the long road home when salicylic acid comes out. So, what exactly does this beta-hydroxy acid do? Well, it’s all in the size of the crystallization. Salicylic acid is tiny enough to dig deep into your acne-prone skin to clear unwanted gunk. This gunk includes dead skin, oil, and much of the dirt present in acne-prone skin. Retinol Before diving too deep into this ingredient, it’s important to understand cell regeneration. Did you know that a lot of the “gunk” in acne-prone skin is actually dead cells? It’s the truth. And it’s one of the primary causes of pimples in general. So, why is retinol a good acne treatment? Retinol works by promoting cell turnover. In other words, it’s going to help you generate new skin cells which will push the old ones out. Retinol is a top-dog in acne treatment. You can find this ingredient over-the-counter, but for serious treatment, you may need a prescription. Niacinamide When it comes to acne treatment, it helps to solve the other issues involved with your skin. Pimples are just a minuscule part of the big equation. How about the inflammation that comes along with acne-prone skin? Fortunately, Niacinamide is great at treating this. Niacinamide, in short terms, is an antioxidant. It’s known as a superior ingredient in the fight against acne. More specifically, it helps rid your skin of inflammation and dark spots as well. It’s important to tackle acne from all angles., and Niacinamide helps you do just that.
Niacinamide: The skincare brightening ninja you need on your bathroom shelf
It lightens, it tightens, it brightens. Is there anything niacinamide can't do? If you’ve got your finger on the pulse of skincare, you may have been hearing about an up and coming ingredient that’s poised to be the next vitamin C. We’re talking about niacinamide, a derivative of vitamin B3 that’s quickly becoming a favorite of dermatologists, estheticians and other skincare industry experts. So what exactly is niacinamide? And why is it a must-have for your beauty routine? Niacinamide is technically classified as a brightening ingredient but its benefits extend well beyond the scope of just cosmetic lightening. It is additionally a powerful reparative agent, acne fighter and anti-aging superhero. A derivative of Vitamin B3, niacinamide is not something our body produces naturally. The best way to benefit from using it is to apply it topically in skincare products like cleansers, toners, serums and creams. But to better understand all the magic behind niacinamide, let’s take a closer look at some of our favorite benefits: Anti-Inflammatory - Niacinamide works to reduce inflammation which is a common factor in many skin conditions including acne, eczema, redness, rosacea and hyperpigmentation. For this reason dermatologists also like it as a gentle alternative to more aggressive active ingredients which can irritate sensitive skin. Oil-Balancing - Acne and oily skin types can benefit greatly from niacinamide’s ability to regulate the skin’s natural sebum production. It helps rebalance and correct excess oil, minimizing breakouts over time. Improves Barrier Function - If your skin lacks oil, niacinamide can also be helpful, as studies show it can aid in improving the skin’s natural lipid barrier. This also increases water retention in dry or aging skin, plumping out fine lines and minimizing the appearance of pores. Promotes Overall Skin Health - A few more amazing benefits of niacinamide include protection against UV and sun damage. Niacinamide can promote better skin immunity - fighting free radical damage and oxidative stress, as well as boosting collagen synthesis. Sound a little too good to be true? It’s not! In fact, a recent study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science found some rather astonishing results when participants were asked to apply a niacinamide cream to one half of their face and a placebo cream to the other half. At the end of 12 weeks, results found that the skin treated by the niacinamide cream showed significant improvement in the form of reduced wrinkles and hyperpigmented spots, compared to the skin treated with the placebo cream. Although results can vary depending on your skin’s condition and product used, with so many potential benefits, niacinamide might just be the game changer your skin has been looking for.
Spotlight on Centella: what are the skincare benefits of Centella Asiatica?
Quietly popular among Korean skincare enthusiasts and those with sensitive skin, Centella, also known as Centella Asiatica, ‘tiger grass’, ‘cica’ or ‘Madécassol’ in France, has become an increasingly popular and ‘buzzy’ skincare ingredient recently so we’ve decided to investigate. So exactly what is Centella? It is a leafy medicinal plant known for its reparative, soothing effects in skincare. How does it work? Scientific studies show that Centella truly does have antioxidant properties which come with a whole host of legit skincare benefits. The Centella plant naturally includes four main active ingredients which can often be found on skincare labels either as ‘Centella asiatica extract’, or as madecassoside, asiatic acid, madecassic acid or asiaticoside. What are the skincare benefits of Centella? 1. Promoting healing and regeneration Centella is best-known for its soothing, healing qualities. Not only does it comfort inflamed, compromised skin, it’s also rich in amino acids which help maintain hydration, and stimulates collagen production to speed up healing. All in all, it’s a perfect recipe for healing post-acne pigmentation marks. 2. Keeping blemishes a bay Centella is a very special anti-acne ingredient in that it manages to remain very gentle and non-drying while being incredibly effective! Its compounds are proven to have anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties which help keep breakouts at bay. Madecassic acid in particular is known to reduce inflammation while also suppressing the formation of acne-scars so it’s a hardworking multi-tasker. 3. Minimizing the signs of ageing Centella is the equivalent of an anti-ageing superfood for your skin. Its leaves are naturally rich amino acids and free radical-fighting antioxidants such as Vitamins A and B. What’s more, there is evidence to show that Centella works to boost collagen production which helps maintains your skin’s elasticity and fortifies its natural moisture barrier. Madecassoside is also known to help prevent pigmentation and other visible effects of sun exposure and UV damage so is a great all-in-one tool to have in your anti-ageing arsenal.
What’s the difference between Vegan and Cruelty Free?
It is 2023 and animal cruelty should be non-negotiable! Not testing on animals is something we’re fully behind. And if the products are vegan, even better. It might have all started with food, but what was once a niche lifestyle is becoming the mass and more mainstream as people take steps to save our dying planet. Every little bit counts as they say. Today the beauty industry is catering to a ‘woke’ generation and the options when it comes to ethical choices have never been greater. What you feed your skin is extremely important as our skin absorbs up to 60% of everything we put on it. So, if you aren’t already assessing what you feed your skin, start! Whether you are an astute label reader or not, it can be confusing in the best of times as not all brands that claim to be cruelty free and vegan display their accreditation. So, what does cruelty free and vegan really mean? And how can we get the right information about the ingredients in our beauty products. Cruelty Free Cruelty-free simply refers to products that not have not been tested on animals. Simple right? Not exactly, it refers to the process, not the ingredients, which means it is possible for a cruelty-free product to contain non-vegan ingredients, such as beeswax, carmine, lanolin, shellac, tallow, and goat's milk. Vegan Vegan products are ones that do not contain any animal-derived ingredients. This includes, but is not limited to, honey, beeswax, lanolin, collagen, albumen, carmine, cholesterol, gelatin, and many others. Where does it get confusing? By definition a vegan beauty product is cruelty-free because vegans do not opt for products that have been tested on animals. The term ‘cruelty-free’ only refers to animal testing, so a product may be cruelty-free, but ironically contain animal ingredients and thus not be vegan. It is also important to note that just because a product is vegan and cruelty-free it does not necessarily mean that an ingredient list is clean, safe, green, or all-natural. You still need to read the list carefully to be sure you’re not putting dangerous chemicals on your skin. Labels are everything! To determine if your product is cruelty-free, look for a logo like the Leaping Bunny approval from Cruelty-Free International, a leading certification for cosmetics, on products. They also have a very handy app available for IOS and Android. Or, look for something that very clearly states that they don’t test on animals. And if you are seeking out vegan products, the best way to know is by looking for one of the universally recognized vegan symbols, often indicated with a “V”. If this is not on the product, your best option is to scan the ingredient list and look out for items like gelatin, beeswax, honey, casein, and lanolin (grease from sheep’s wool) to name a few.
Should you be using Sulfate-free hair products?
‘Sulfate-free’ seems to be an increasingly widespread term in the haircare world, and you’ll often find this claim on high-end and professional haircare brands, but what does it actually mean? We investigate – should we be avoiding sulfates, and if so, why? What are sulfates? Sulfates are essentially cleansing agents often found in household detergents and personal care products, the most popular of which are sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS), and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES). Sulfates are made from sulfur-containing salts. They attract both water and oil, which is why they can effectively clean your hair (or skin, teeth, and clothes). As you wash your hair, sulfates grab onto all the dirt, oil, and product buildup in your strands and scalp, and then carry them out of your hair (and down the drain) when you rinse clean with water. If you’ve noticed how some shampoos quickly lather into a foam when mixed with water, you have already seen sulfates at work. Sulfates are ‘surfactants’ which means that they lower the tension between the shampoo’s active ingredients and your scalp, facilitating the removal of dead skin cells and oils. Unfortunately, they work a little too well and can sometimes result in excess natural oils being stripped away during washing. Are sulfates harmful to health? The use of sulfates in detergents has been a cause for controversy in recent decades, with rumors that sulfates are potential carcinogens with frequent exposure. However, these rumors are not supported by scientific evidence, and there are no scientific studies that point to a link between sulfates and long-term harm or cancer. So why would we avoid sulfates in haircare? Although the use of sulfates has not been directly attributed to any particular health concerns, that doesn’t mean that they’re great for your hair either. Sulfates can still potentially cause damage your hair either by causing irritation or damaging your strands. Hair is made up of protein, and when this protein is damaged, then your hair is weakened and can lose its natural luster. Unfortunately, the use of sulfates in haircare is associated with speeding up the removal of natural proteins which can leave you with breakage, split ends and generally dull, lifeless hair. In this same way, sulfates can strip your hair of colour and lead to premature colour fading. Those with dry or fine hair may be particularly susceptible to sulfate damage, as they naturally have fragile strands that suffer when too many natural oils are removed. Sulfates are also known irritants and can cause contact dermatitis on your scalp as well as your back and shoulder if you have sensitive skin or rosacea in particular. In extreme cases, this may even lead to breakage and hair loss as a result of the irritation. What are the alternatives? If your regular supermarket shampoo is giving you the results you want without excessive dryness, colour fade or irritation, there is really no need to avoid sulfates. After all, it’s not only about whether sulfates are included in the formula, but also how they are worked in and at what ratio. If the balance is right, the other ingredients are high quality, and the shampoo is working for you, keep lathering away! If you do want to reduce your exposure to sulfates there are many sulfate-free options available on the market that do a great job at gently cleansing your strands. Just remember that the sulfate-free experience may feel a little different! That luxurious foam you get with supermarket shampoos will be a thing of the past, but you have a shiny, healthy mane of hair to look forward to as a long-term reward.
Weird but wonderful skincare ingredients to know
Beauty enthusiasts are no strangers to unconventional ingredients. Every few years it seems a new scientific finding pushes the use of a new component into the spotlight. Some pass the test and become household names – looking at you, retinol – whereas others fall to the side lines, revealing their fad-like properties. What we find, however, is that some of the most peculiar ingredients in skincare today are wildly beneficial and not really as ridiculous as they seem Snail Mucin This protein-rich, antioxidant-filled secretion is full of elastin and glycolic acid - everything your skin needs to rid itself of dead skin cells, reduce signs of aging, and stimulate collagen. Copper Although widely known and seen in our household items such as cookware and piping, Copper is also extremely beneficial for our skin due to its antibacterial, antifungal and powerful antioxidant properties. Caffeine Although most are used to drinking coffee, rather than absorbing it, the antioxidant-filled, natural diuretic caffeine also finds itself in body-care products simply because it works wonders by dehydrating fat cells to create a temporarily smoother look. Charcoal Charcoal is known to remove excess oil, so those with oily skin would benefit the most from trying a charcoal-based skincare product. As an ingredient, it’s also great at treating acne and detoxify the skin by removing dirt and oil. Kaolin Clay Kaolinite is a clay mineral, usually white and very soft in texture, is not the most absorbent like other clays, however, it clears the skin pores, but without stripping your skin of the natural oils, and removes traces of dirt, pollution, grime, and bacteria effectively from your skin without clogging.