The Powder Room Journal
Ingredients explained, routines analysed, and the questions our community are asking
The Powder Room Journal
The low-down on 'double cleansing'
Cleansing is the foundation of any effective skincare routine, especially for those of us who wear a full face of make-up and sunscreen (so that's all of us, right?!) For the city-dwellers among us, it is not just essential for avoiding blemishes but also for removing bacteria and pollutants which can potentially accelerate ageing. Enter double-cleansing, which has become a bit of a buzzword recently, especially with the rise of the Korean 10-step skincare routine. What is double cleansing? So what exactly is double cleansing? Put simply, it is cleansing twice; first with an oil-based cleanser or balm, prior to cleansing a second time with a water-based traditional cleanser, such as a cleansing gel or foam. That may sound rather excessive however the idea behind it makes sense; make-up, sunscreen and pore-clogging sebum are most effectively broken down and dissolved by oils, rather than detergents, as 'like' mixes with 'like'. An oil or balm suitable for cleansing must be used to ensure that the oil emulsifies when it is ready to be rinsed off, and it should be massaged into dry skin in order to avoid it emulsifying too quickly to allow it to break down oils effectively. Once the grime has been loosened and broken down, the second cleanse can get to work on properly cleansing your pores of any residual bacteria, dead skin cells and surface debris. We recommend a foaming, gel or clay-based cleanser, gently massaged into the skin, and always rinsing with lukewarm water afterwards to avoid irritation. Should you be double cleansing? For the most part, absolutely. Although massaging oil into your skin may sound counter-intuitive if you are naturally oily and blemish-prone, it actually makes for a deeper, more effective cleanse. Not only does that lead to clear and radiant skin, it leaves the skin better prepared for absorbing any serums or skincare actives which follow. The dangers of over-cleansing are very real, however, and can lead to stripped and dehydrated skin, so we only recommend double-cleansing in the evenings. Those with rosacea-prone skin should also approach with caution, and the acne-prone should watch out for oils known to irritate and clog pores. Happy cleansing!
Dry or dehydrated skin - is there a difference?
There is a big difference between dry skin and dehydrated skin! It is easy to confuse dryness with dehydration but while dryness is due to a lack of natural oils, dehydration is actually a result of water loss – although sometimes your skin can be both. Put simply, one is due to nature: dry skin is due to low production of lipids and unlike dehydrated skin, it is a genetic skin type. Dehydrated skin is a result of environmental factors and even oily skin can at times be dehydrated. How do you differentiate between dry and dehydrated skin? Simple – observe your skin for shine. If your face is more gleam and less matte, dry skin is not your problem. Dry skin can appear rough, dry and sometimes flaky. Dehydrated skin might feel tight and have an uncomfortable shine, appear dull, sensitive or rough. Dehydrated skin also shows faster signs of ageing, such as more pronounced fine lines and wrinkles (yikes!) Dry skin If you do have dry skin, it is recommended that you invest in a specially formulated moisturizer for your skin type. To lock in moisture, make sure to replenish and moisturize your skin right after cleansing, and either use a moisturizer with broad spectrum SPF or wear a separate layer of sunscreen (which is what we recommend). This will prevent extra dryness that occurs from sun damage in the long-term, you can never be too safe with wearing sunscreen! Dry skin can be worsened either by using the wrong skin care products, or by not using any skin care products at all. For the most effective routine, use a hydrating cleanser to avoid further stripping your skin of natural oils and moisturize with nourishing oils and lipid-rich moisturizers. Dehydrated skin On the other hand, you have your lifestyle to thank for dehydrated skin. In our desert oasis, it’s extremely common and is caused by a plethora of factors including weather, diet, lifestyle, product use, over-cleansing and pollution. The important point to remember is that dehydration is a skin condition, which means it can change at any time. It is what you do about it that matters. Dehydrated skin signifies a lack of hydration inside the body or simply – you are not drinking enough water. And while it might be the most overused skin care tip ever, it really is an important one. Conversely, high sodium foods draw water from your body and can contribute to dehydration, and this goes hand in hand with avoiding excessive caffeine or alcohol consumption. Do keep in mind that while dehydrated skin is a temporary state, staring intensely in the mirror to watch your lines disappear is not going to work (sadly). Keeping skin hydrated is a lifestyle change and not a quick fix. To improve the condition of dehydrated skin, look for products with moisture-binding ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid, honey, aloe and other forms of water-based hydration. Avoid very harsh and stripping cleansers and indulge in a hydrating sheet mask every now and again, or nightly for more immediate results.