The Powder Room Journal
Ingredients explained, routines analysed, and the questions our community are asking
The Powder Room Journal
Eight beauty mistakes you need to stop making immediately
Old habits die hard and this couldn’t be truer when it comes to beauty. We all know that we should be wearing a ton of SPF and drinking gallons of water daily, but beyond that, most of us just end up doing what we’re used to. Which is totally fine, unless you’re self-sabotaging and find yourself paying the price! We break down eight of the most common – but easy to fix, phew! – beauty mistakes that we all need to stop making ASAP. 1. Assuming the SPF in your foundation is enough Sadly, the SPF 20 in your moisturizer or foundation doesn’t cut it. Not only do you use far less foundation than you would a sunscreen, it is likely to a lower SPF than needed and with no reapplication. Typically, around 1/3 to 1/2 teaspoon of minimum SPF 30 is needed to sufficiently protect your face. Not only does UV exposure accelerate ageing, it any darkens blemish scars you may already have, so this is a change worth making. 2. Applying DIY face masks Step away from the lemon juice, please. While the idea of glowing skin created with nothing but the contents of your kitchen can be appealing, especially when you’re on a budget, the reality is that it can be risky. Recipes which call for corrosive ingredients such as lemon juice or baking soda can be very harmful can compromise your skin’s moisture barrier. Irritation, burns, hypersensitivity and even salmonella (if you accidentally ingest a raw egg mask) are problems you do not want to have! We also recommend exercising caution when it comes to coconut oil. Coconut oil is very versatile and can be used as an occasional hair treatment, for example, however it is very comedogenic so can cause serious breakouts if used on the face. Don’t say we didn’t warn you! 3. Overdoing it with skincare products We are so guilty of this one. We love nothing more than a good beauty haul and experimenting with new products. It can be seriously tempting to use everything on the shelf at once, but less is really more when it comes to skincare. Using too many products which are formulated with active ingredients can leave your skin irritated and over-exfoliated, and while layering too many hydrating ingredients is less risky, it doesn’t allow you to identify what’s really working for you. 4. Wearing makeup to the gym You don’t have to work up a huge sweat to trap oils and bacteria under a layer of makeup. Doesn’t sound appealing, right? We didn’t think so. This can be tricky when you’re working out at lunchtime, in which case we suggest removing only your foundation and reapplying later – although you’ll likely have a healthy flush you might not want to cover! 5. Using too much dry shampoo Dry shampoo is a haircare staple and for good reason. It saves us time and helps make hair styling so much easier. However tempting it can be to reach for the can on a daily basis, it could be detrimental to your hair and scalp health in the long term, leading to irritation, flakiness and a dull appearance. We suggest using dry shampoo only when absolutely necessary – which isn’t every second-day updo – and using a clarifying shampoo now and again to help your hair in tip top condition. 6. Touching your face Its skincare 101 – don’t pick or touch your face! If you struggle with absent-minded picking, which many of us do, make a verbal commitment to yourself to stop. Keep your hands occupied and make it a priority, as this is the easiest way to spread bacteria and cause infections. Have you ever noticed that you get more blemishes around an area when you’ve been picking one particular spot? This is why. 7. Removing your makeup off with a cleansing wipe Makeup wipes don’t really remove your makeup, they remove the pigmented excess and mostly just move the rest around on your skin, leading to congestion, dull skin ad breakouts. If the thought of a double-cleanse right before bed is too much to bear, how about trying a balm cleanser? These types of cleansers remove makeup and SPF effectively while leaving your skin clean and ready for moisture. 8. Avoiding moisturizer when your skin is oily Speaking of moisturizer, the last thing you want to do when your skin is feeling oily is to skip it all together! Well, this actually depends on the type of moisturizer you’re using. Dehydration typically exacerbates oily skin as your skin produces more oil to keep itself balanced – trapping you in a vicious cycle. After washing with a low pH cleanser, hydrating oily skin with a hyaluronic acid serum and a light gel moisturizer works best.
Ten common beauty myths you really have to stop believing
When it comes to the subject of beauty - advice, tips and tricks in particular - it can sometimes be difficult to separate fact from fiction. We are here to set the record straight on the most common misconceptions that might secretly be sabotaging your skincare efforts. 1. Pores can be shrunk Unfortunately, the size of your pores will never change, regardless of which products you use or how much steam you subject your face to. (Side note: we suggest you avoid steaming your face unless it is an occasional and gentle steam, otherwise this is a sure-fire way to dry your skin out for little benefit). Pores may appear wider or tighter sometimes, as temperature changes do cause the skin to either soften or contract, but this effect is only temporary. The good news is that pores are only really noticeable when they are congested, and that can be addressed. The best way to improve the appearance of clogged pores is by using of Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) – also known as Salicylic Acid. BHAs work to loosen clogs by binding to the sebum and oils congesting the pores, minimizing their appearance over time. 2. Oily skin doesn’t need (as much) moisture This one couldn’t be further from the truth! Oily skin needs just as much, if not more hydration than other skin types. When the skin is stripped of its natural moisture by harsh products or cleansers, it will overcompensate by producing even more oil! The key to balancing oil production is to layer a light, water-based hydrating product (look for ingredients like Hyaluronic Acid) under an oil-based moisturizer. This helps ‘seal’ the moisture into the skin and reverse the over-compensation. 3. Wearing make up every day causes breakouts Nope. Well, some make-up can cause breakouts if your skin is sensitive to a particular ingredient, but this is not common. What actually causes breakouts is not removing make up properly, and no, wipes are not enough. Sleeping in makeup not only leads to pore-clogging buildup and encourages bacteria to flourish, it can even lead to eye infections where eye makeup isn’t removed properly. If you are wearing a full face of make up and SPF on a daily basis then your skin needs thorough cleanse with an oil-based cleanser, ideally followed by a water-based or foaming second cleanse to remove any remaining impurities. 4. Products with ‘natural’ ingredients will not cause irritation The benefits of using natural and organic beauty products are endless, however a lower likelihood of irritation is not guaranteed to be one of them. Essential oils are often used in natural formulations and yield very effective results, but can also trigger reactions in sensitive skin types. Tolerance to essential oils is highly personal so we recommend carrying out a patch test before using new products, particularly where serums or facial oils are concerned. 5. If a product is labelled as ‘hypoallergenic’, it will be suitable for all skin types The term ‘hypoallergenic’ doesn’t really mean anything! There are no consistent regulations or guidelines anywhere in the world regarding what qualifies as ‘hypoallergenic’. Often, what it actually means is that the product is formulated without the most common allergenic ingredients, so it may not be as safe as you assume. The only way to avoid adverse reactions is to read and make a mental (or actual) note of the ingredients in the products you use, and over time learn to identify what doesn’t work for your skin. 6. Home beauty remedies are harmless Natural home remedies for popular skincare problems seem harmless enough, combining various common household ingredients for instant hair and face masks, scrubs and other treatments. However, they should be approached with caution as many of these otherwise safe ingredients are not so safe when applied directly to the skin. For example, baking soda is often featured in these recipes, but it’s extremely alkaline properties can compromise the skin’s acid mantle, doing far more harm than good. Lemon juice and coconut oil are also often recommended as part of these DIY remedies, however lemon juice is extremely acidic and can burn and dehydrate the skin, whilst coconut oil can seriously clog your pores and weigh your hair down. Leave the beauty formulations to the experts! 7. You don’t need to wear sunscreen if your makeup has SPF This is a potentially dangerous myth, as makeup products which include sun protection provide a false sense of security. The amount of sunscreen needed to adequately protect your skin from the sun’s harmful rays is much, much more than the amount of makeup you would apply at once (re-application aside). Be safe and apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen, no less than SPF 30, under your makeup daily. 8. Eating chocolate and junk food gives you breakouts Well, not directly. Studies have shown that a clean diet as part of an overall healthy lifestyle does have an impact on your skin (after all, you really are what you eat), but there is no evidence that indulging in the occasional treat will result in a breakout or that eating clean will guarantee clear skin. It is possible, however, that the dairy in that chocolate bar could be sabotaging your skin – read our full editorial on how dairy consumption affects your skin here. 9. You need an eye cream We love our eye cream. But as long as you are using a good moisturizer which is suitable for your skin type, a separate eye cream is not necessary. The skin around your eyes is essentially the same as the skin elsewhere on your face, albeit a little thinner and more delicate. Any product which works to moisturize, nourish and repair your skin in general will work around your eyes, as long as it is not especially harsh or drying. And while we are on the subject, it is also not necessary to apply product around the eyes with your ring finger. This wide-spread myth stems from the assumption that the ring finger will apply the least pressure. The key is to very gently pat rather than rub, regardless of which finger you use. 10. Exfoliating daily will keep my skin clear and smooth Exfoliating regularly is a great idea, however, exfoliating daily is very risky can lead to stressed and uncomfortable skin. Whether you are using a scrub, a gentle enzyme exfoliator, acids, retinoids or a combination of all of these, we recommend applying exfoliating products between once and three times a week at most. Any more than this and you risk compromising your skin’s natural moisture barrier and ending up with tight, red and flaky skin. Existing blemishes are also more likely to become irritated, and the skin will take longer to heal. When it comes to exfoliation, moderation is key. BONUS MYTH: Dry shampoo is the answer to everything Who doesn’t love dry shampoo? We certainly do. Not only is it a time-saving godsend for keeping unwashed hair looking clean and smelling fresh, it is also one of our favourite styling tools (hello volume). The bad news is that using dry shampoo too often can really dehydrate your strands and leave your scalp flaky, irritated and inflamed. Residual build-up over time can also lead to dull, lifeless hair. Show your scalp some love and limit your use to a couple of times a week at most.
The ultimate guide to getting your glow
It’s official – dewy skin is in. Healthy-looking skin has an irresistible glow and a spark of energy – regardless of age. Although a superficial glow can be created with illuminating make-up, we are here to tell you that there is no real shortcut. The secret to a truly luminous, lit-from-within complexion is in the foundation: a multi layered, consistent and gentle skincare routine. Here are some simple tips to keep your skin glowing always. Drink water Double up on your water intake this Ramadan and add some hydrating products to your beauty routine, even if you consider yourself to have oily skin. Your skin might just be producing more oil, and more blemishes, because it is dehydrated. Make sure you drink plenty of water and natural fresh (no sugar added!) juices as your break your fast. Your skin and body will need some extra help to stay hydrated and supple and increasing your water intake will brighten, heal and prevent breakouts. Moisturize This is an obvious one but if you want dewy skin, moisturizing is absolutely essential. If your skin is dry, it will undoubtedly look dull. If you have dry or normal skin, try a richer face cream or even oils to really lock the hydration in. Products rich with ceramides can strengthen skin’s natural barrier and help it hold on to moisture better. If your skin is on the oiler side and you are prone to shine, try an oil-free hydrator with ingredients like hyaluronic acid. We are obsessed with Mizon’s Hyaluronic Acid 100 which layers well under a light moisturizer for the ultimate in hydrated yet oil-free skin. Exfoliate If you slack when it comes to exfoliating your skin, a buildup of dead skin cells will give it a dull and uneven appearance. Exfoliating helps to brighten the skin by sloughing the dead cells away and revealing the fresh, healthy layer of skin underneath. Physical exfoliating scrubs are often made with ground nuts or particles with sharp edges which can cause tiny cuts to the delicate skin on the face – leaving it vulnerable to breakout-causing bacteria. Chemical exfoliators, unless especially gentle and formulated for sensitive skin, can also be irritating and can compromise the skin’s natural moisture barrier. Enzyme exfoliants are often the best option – which gently dissolve dead skin cell bonds and impurities on the surface of the skin, leaving it soft and smooth without causing any harm. Try Grown Alchemist Enzyme Facial Exfoliant: Papain & Amino Complex for smooth, supple and luminous skin. Alternatively… Use an AHA Chemical exfoliants are also a great option for all but very sensitive skin types, particularly products which include alpha hydroxy acids (AHA), which are a great route to radiance and rejuvenation. AHAs, such as glycolic acid, renew the skin’s surface by dissolving the bonds between the new and old layer of skin cells. What’s more, AHAs are humectants which help the skin hold onto hydration. These acids help to reduce the appearance of aging and minimize the appearance of pores, revealing a bright and even complexion. Use sun protection This goes without saying – we do live in the desert after all! It is important not to underestimate the value of sunscreen. Protecting your skin from sun damage is not an optional insurance policy for the future – it also has a more immediate impact on the tone and texture of your skin in the short term. Pigmentation, dark marks and acne scars are immediately darkened by sun exposure, and the skin’s texture will develop a dehydrated, dull appearance – not to mention accelerating the formation of fine lines and wrinkles. The only way to maintain a healthy, bright and glowing complexion is to keep damaging UV rays far away from your precious skin cells. Use Retinol Vitamin A or retinol is the gold standard in skin ageing because it encourages your skin to speed up its natural turnover (the process wherein old skin cells are sloughed away and replaced by fresh new ones). Faster cell turnover leads to more collagen, the springy framework that keeps young skin plump and glowing, and in turn, fewer fine lines and smoother skin texture. Try Sarah Chapman Overnight Facial to wake up to smooth and rejuvenated skin. This sophisticated serum-oil combines a potent mixture of retinol, antioxidants, anti-inflammatory Omega oils, vitamin C and a skin-brightening complex to rejuvenate and brighten. Create the illusion of a glow with an illuminator For that maximum glow, use an illuminator or highlighter. They have been a major trend in recent years and are an easy way to increase your skin’s natural exuberance. We love ILIA’s Illuminator (Cosmic Dancer – Gold) which combines a subtle non-glittery highlight with skin-friendly, organic ingredients such as healing beeswax, shea butter and avocado oil. Sheet mask! Occasionally indulging in a hydrating sheet mask is a surefire way to temporarily promote the appearance of dewy skin, however nightly or more frequent use can have lasting effects as your skin increasingly remains hydrated and nourished.
Cost-free beauty tips for babes on a budget
Has a carefree summer vacation left your wallet feeling blue? Being committed to beauty can cost you and arm and a leg but it doesn’t have to - you can maximize your routine without lots of extra spending. Here are our tips for beauty on a shoe-string: Wash your beauty tools regularly Keeping your beauty tools, such as make-up brushes, make-up sponges, konjac sponges and even your pillowcase (which your face rubs against every night) clean can make all the difference in avoiding unnecessary breakouts and infections. No special cleansers needed; just use a little of your favorite face wash for make-up tools and always let them dry thoroughly to avoid cultivating bacteria. Invest in tools and accessories that last Trying to save can sometimes present a false economy and sometimes splurging on products which last, such as beauty tools, can save you more in the long-term. For example, if you apply make-up daily, buy a good set of brushes that maintain their quality with regular cleaning. Spending less on more simple brushes can mean that you need to replace them more often. Investing in a silk pillowcase can mean saving more in anti-aging treatments in the long-term, as silk helps keep your skin crease-free and hydrated while you sleep - which you should be spending over 7 hours doing daily. Do some research before purchase Understand your skin and it’s likes and dislikes - this will save you a ton of money in the long-term, and do your research thoroughly before spending any money. Read reviews and inspect ingredients lists when it comes to buying any products - from a simple, low-cost face wash to more substantially-priced serums and treatments. It might be a no-brainer when it comes to more expensive investments but it also pays off to avoid lower-priced products which may not work for your skin type and lead to breakouts and other skin conditions. Adverse reactions can be costly and time-consuming to fix so avoid getting yourself trapped in this cycle. Request samples before investing in new products Almost any reputable beauty retailer will provide - or make - samples of the products you’re interested in because trialing a product can make all the difference. If you have sensitive skin, always patch test. For example, Powder offers 3 samples with every purchase but requests for particular samples can always be accommodated because we recognize how important it can be to patch test and try before you buy. Invest the majority of your beauty budget in the products that have the biggest impact If your budget is limited, invest the majority of it in the serum step of your routine. Your face wash is very important - and we highly-recommend double-cleansing for all - but ultimately, as long as it does its job, it washes off so can be kept simple and inexpensive. Creams are predominantly occlusive, which means they seal moisture and goodness into your skin, and although it can be nice to have them packed with additional beneficial ingredients, it is not necessary when you are trying to save. Where it makes sense to invest is in your serum or treatment step, which is where your personal needs - such as for clarity, luminosity, minimizing the appearance of aging, dehydration or anything else, should be addressed. Look for active ingredients that work with your needs and invest in those for the best returns. Remember that less can be more Is that highlighter/mask/serum really necessary? If you are just looking for maintenance, are those expensive oils really going to make a difference and help you achieve your beauty or skin goals? Resist marketing temptation and listen to your skin – you often benefit more by buying less and Work with your natural hair type Styling your hair with heated tools and drying colorants can either be damaging or costly. If you want to avoid having to spend more than you have to on regular salon visits, masks and hair treatments, work with your natural hair type. Experiment with new styles and research how best to treat your hair - your natural style will always suit you if treated and maintained gently. Drink a ton of water It’s obvious but it is also the easiest way of improving your appearance and encouraging a natural glow without spending any extra cash - drink water regularly and generously. In our air-conditioning heavy, humid desert environment, making sure you stay hydrated can save you a small fortune in serums and treatments your skin may need to remain luminous. Keep your lifestyle clean Stop smoking. Not only is it expensive, but has a noticeable impact on the appearance of your skin, in addition to other (more serious) health risks. If you are committed to your skincare but don’t want to spend any more than you have to, avoid the smoke. This includes second-hand smoking in polluted restaurants and bars - always choose the non-smoking section even if you occasionally indulge to avoid doing unnecessary contamination. The same goes for avoiding junk foods and late nights; if your health is being compromised, one way or another your appearance will reflect that. Avoid picking and touching your face However often you wash your hands, often they’re not always clean. Picking and touching your skin can do some serious damage, leaving scars which only fade with either lengthy periods of time or often expensive treatments. Picking can be seriously addictive (trust us, we know) so confront this issue head-on and make a commitment to yourself to change your habits. Write this commitment down, repeat affirmations and keep a stress-ball handy so your hands have something to occupy them when temptation strikes.
Easy ways to make your beauty routine clean and green
Gone are the days when being a conscious consumer meant waving a heart-breaking goodbye to all those chic, exciting and beautifully-packaged products your heart desires. Luxuriously-formulated organic, vegan and cruelty-free products are more available and accessible than ever before. However, it can still be overwhelming and expensive to make a full commitment to clean and green self-care. Here are our recommendations for making the transition to non-toxic beauty as easy as possible: Start with your body! If your objective to is to reduce the toxins being absorbed directly into your skin, consider that the majority of your skin is on your body, not your face! With that in mind, the fastest, easiest and most effective change you can make to reduce the toxins in your routine is through using organic body products. … then your SPF Regardless of where you stand when it comes to the debate on chemical sunscreen, we can all agree on one thing; in our climate here in the UAE, you need sun protection and you need it daily. Luckily, we now have access to skin-friendly broad-spectrum options to choose from! Try an organic mineral sunscreen on your face and body to protect yourself from the sun’s harmful rays while staying clean and responsible. Focus on your lips Think about it, you can’t fully avoid eating the products you wear on your lips (and all the artificial pigments and chemicals they’re usually made of). If you are going to invest in organic make-up or skincare, prioritise your lips. Don’t obsess with your cleanse Every chemical or product that touches your skin has an impact, to a lesser or greater extent but if you want to clean up your act but don’t want to hurt your wallet, focus on products which stay on your skin. This means prioritizing your moisturizer or serum over your cleanser. We fully-advocate using a milder cleanser with a ‘cleaner’ list of ingredients where possible but if you must choose, choose the products that don’t wash off. Your scalp is still a part of your face (sort of) There are so many harsh, harmful chemicals in most haircare products and these absorb very easily through the sensitive skin on your scalp. Treat it with love and nourish it with organic formulas which soothe and repair as they cleanse.
Five ways to vacation-proof your beauty routine
Vacation season is in full swing! We are packing our bags and escaping the heat, and chances are, that’s what you’re planning too. There’s nothing quite as invigorating as a holiday, and sometimes it’s just what you need to clear your mind and restore your energy and focus. Achieving that bronzed, stylish-but-effortless holiday beauty look is not as easy as it appears on Instagram... here are five tips we have for making it a little easier. Switch up your skincare routine The change in season and in your environment is a great opportunity to review what you’re using and what might no longer be working for you, especially when it comes to those products you want to love, but can’t bear to admit don’t work for you This is a time to consider whether you really need oils in your routine, which could be sitting heavy on your skin amidst all the heat and humidity, or perhaps whether you really need to be using products with acids which increase photosensitivity. The summer is also a great time to incorporate Vitamin C into your skincare, as it helps fight sun damage (but is in no way a substitute for sunscreen). And add some extra hydration! Travel is dehydrating – flights, air-conditioning and you’re likely to be drinking less water than usual. Stop dehydration before it takes its toll and add a hyaluronic acid-based serum or a few sheet masks a week to keep your skin luminous and hydrated. Fully commit to your SPF Yes, you probably wear sunscreen. But are you topping it up frequently enough and are you using the right kind of sun protection for your skin type? Always read the label on your preferred sunscreen and note how much protection you can expect, or for how long. If you tend to forget, set an alarm on your phone or download an app! There are plenty of apps available, some of which are free, to help you stay healthy and protected. Sun exposure can undo all the hard work you’ve been doing at home to keep your skin healthy and free of hyperpigmentation. If you are picky about the kind of sunscreen you use, or if you prefer to use organic products or have sensitive skin, take back-ups or a large size of your favorites. Keep the makeup light and natural Give your skin a chance to breathe. Choose dewy and natural over heavy makeup, especially when it comes to your complexion. Even if your skin isn’t your idea of perfect, give yourself a mental break to be yourself – it gets progressively easier! Remember to cleanse thoroughly, even if you’re not wearing make-up on your complexion. Removing SPF residue is essential for keeping your skin bright and clear. Watch your diet Enjoy your vacation, go for it! But if you can, try to do it in moderation. Sugar and dehydration equals ageing. Drink water as often as you can remember, and consider carrying your own refillable glass bottle. Great for the environment, great for your health, great for your conscience. Don’t forget your hair! Your hair gets damaged in the sun too, especially when combined with salty seawater. Sun protection for your hair exists, use it! Either cover up with a hat or use a leave-in conditioner or spray with UV protection. Otherwise, a stylish (and suitcase friendly alternative is to wear a chic scarf twisted into a turban to protect your hair around the pool. Don’t forget to use a replenishing intensive treatment or mask every few days to keep your locks smooth and shiny. Bon voyage!
Holiday Skincare Survival Guide
We are in the midst of the most wonderful time of year! The holiday season is almost certainly not wonderful for our complexions, however. These are our quick tips for ensuring your skin survives the end of the year and starts January off with a glow: 1. Drink Plenty of Water Yes, we are always repeating ourselves with this one however it is particularly important to stay hydrated during this time of year. In between sleep deprivation, stress, sugary food and drinks and other environmental stressors, drinking enough water is the easiest way to keep things in balance – aim for 2-3 litres per day. 2. Maintain a Basic Routine The temptation to fall asleep in your make-up may be strong but resist! This may not be a time for indulging in masks however maintaining at least a quick and simple skincare routine is essential. Using a gentle balm cleanser, or cleansing water if you're not wearing make-up, followed by a hydrating moisturizer will do the trick when in a rush. 3. Make-up Avoid heavy and potentially pore-clogging make-up in favor of lightweight formulas packed with soothing and hydrating ingredients which will help keep your skin in tip top condition. 4. Don’t Squeeze Pimples We all want perfect skin, especially this time of year! Breakouts can seem like the end of the world when you have a full social calendar, but pimples can easily be covered with make-up as long as they are not irritated or inflamed. If you are facing a very inconveniently-timed breakout, start by calming the skin down with a mud mask. Follow with a sheet mask for adding hydration to create a smooth canvas for make-up application, prior to moisturizing and priming. Products formulated with snail mucin are especially effective in healing and speeding up the recovery of blemished skin. In order to avoid redness and inflammation, which is much more difficult to cover up, do not pick or squeeze any pimples unless they are whiteheads which are fully at the surface. Rather than squeezing, pull the skin around the pimple gently in an outward motion as if to stretch it out, which will prompt the whitehead to ooze out of the pore (satisfying!) Dab the area gently with rubbing alcohol then apply a spot treatment. 5. Using a Silk Pillowcase To keep your hairstyle intact that little bit longer and save on precious styling time, nothing beats sleeping on a silk pillowcase. The smooth silk fibers reduce friction against the hair shaft therefore also reducing static, breakages and frizz. As a bonus, your skin will also stay more hydrated as less moisture will be absorbed from your skin by silk!